I first came across the sauce at Pierre Gagnaire’s eponymous three-Michelin-starred restaurant in Paris. It stood out, even as I was bombarded by experimental dishes and wild flavors. It felt familiar, but in an uncanny way, as if I were tasting something I had previously encountered only in a dream.

http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/content/article/2010/03/30/AR2010033000840.html